Written by: Ethan Ong Mu Wei
The world we live in has drastically changed due to the rise of industrialization and automation. Thanks to it, many of our day-to-day activities have been simplified. It benefited society as a whole, allowing our production and efficiency to increase. However, the benefits we enjoy come at a cost. The improvement of technology created many new jobs, but it has also displaced just as many. Without us knowing, many of our local heritage businesses have slowly and silently been fading away.
One of these waning businesses is handmade songkoks. Songkoks are traditional headwear worn by Muslim men in Singapore as well as other countries in the Southeast Asia region. It is a round cap that is folded and stitched together with fabric. It is decorated with different design patterns and colours.
Technology has simplified the process of songkok making. Most songkoks in the market are mass-produced in factories. However, Mr Abdul Wahab Abdullah, better known as the last songkok maker in Singapore at 62, is still preserving this tradition with his handmade art. “I may not be as fast as machines, but every songkok I make is uniquely and carefully crafted for each customer,” said Abdul.
He believes that “Machine made songkoks cannot be compared to handmade as there is a certain amount of detail you can never get from factory-made.”
Abdul started picking up this skill from his late father when he was just a child. He has been making songkoks for people for over 40 years. He has seen how the whole scene has changed over the years.
“It was tough when I first started because there were so many other people doing the same thing, but now I am the only one left.” He shared.
Although Abdul is known for handmaking songkoks, one unique thing most people do not know about him is that he also handmakes his own sandals.
He owns a tiny store hidden away in Tanjong Katong Complex. His shop can be unassuming to most passersby, it just looks like any other shop that sells traditional Malay clothing. But if you walk in, you will be greeted by him while he is handcrafting his next masterpiece.
Songkoks are mainly worn during formal events and festivals, but that does not mean Abdul can catch a break during the non-festive season. “I have many orders and because I handmake everything. Make me very busy with orders.”
Songkoks have become a product of mass manufacturing, making them cheap and conveniently purchasable online and from different retailers. Despite that challenge, many customers still seek out songkoks that are handmade by Abdul. They prefer his caps because they value the quality of his product and the attention to detail, he puts into his goods. They are willing to pay more and wait for him to handmake the product.
His high level of craftsmanship makes his products very sought after. Not only do people come to him because of his skill, but they also go to him because he only uses the best material, fabric from JB Martin. About a meter of fabric can cost around $100. With such expensive materials running the business can be costly.
A significant challenge for Abdul has been managing the cost of his business. “Doing business is hard! The rental for this small shop is very high, plus the earnings can vary during different seasons.” Abdul expressed his concerns over the future of his business and songkok-making.
“I worry the art of songkok-making may end with me…” he said.
Abdul’s passed down the craft to his children. However, he is still unsure whether anyone would be anyone succeeding him. Running a business is risky, costly, and requires a great deal of work, plus it does not come with any workplace benefits. His wife, who assists him at the shop, expressed that a stable job at a company might be better for their children’s futures.
“The cost of running the shop is so high! Also doing business is unpredictable, sometimes profit is not a lot after the cost is deducted from the revenue. It might be better if they just get normal jobs with steady income and CPF.” She said.
Despite all their challenges, they are still dedicated to keeping the tradition of handmade songkoks alive in Singapore. Even though they are unsure of the future of songkok making in Singapore, they still want to provide high-quality handmade songkoks for their customers, who have been purchasing from them for a long time.
In a world where so many products have become mass-produced and easily accessible, we have forgotten how precious handmade products are. Especially Abdul is the last of the handmade songkok crafters in Singapore. The value and unique skillset he provides in his handmade songkoks and sandals will be wasted if it is lost with him.
