Written by: Seth Cheong
Take a step back in time as you enter Kim Choo Kueh Chang, an invaluable hub of Peranakan heritage nestled in the historic neighborhood of Katong. Experience the rich world of Peranakan culture and tradition. Savour the inviting aromas of freshly-made rice dumplings and kueh kuehs. Immerse yourself in all things Peranakan. With the business’ established presence, one could never imagine that it all started under a humble Banyan tree.
Kim Choo Kueh Chang, a beloved Peranakan heritage business in Singapore, offers a taste of tradition with their handmade rice dumplings and various Peranakan artifacts.
In 1945, during a period of hardship, Madam Lee Kim Choo turned to her inherited culinary skills to start a business. She sold mixed rice, Nyonya Kuehs, and rice dumplings (known as kueh chang) under a Banyan tree at the intersection of Joo Chiat Place and Everitt Road. Since then, the business has bloomed into a hub for all things Peranakan, offering custom-made Sarong Kebayas and Batik clothing, Peranakan porcelain wholesale, heritage-promoting tours, talks, and workshops.
Mr. Edmond Wong, Madam Lee’s grandson, is now the CSR (Corporate Social Responsibility) director and third-generation family business owner, managing it alongside his two brothers. A trained programmer, he remembers returning to the family business to help during a struggle.
Edmond Wong, third generation owner of Kim Choo Kueh Chang, holds two bunches of the store’s popular rice dumplings, or “kueh chang.”
Beyond a Duty
Around 2009, Kim Choo Kueh Chang faced a manpower shortage, which would have required the business to cease operations entirely. “We thought if we were to shut down the business, then what a pity, right?” says Mr. Wong, “So we all decided to come back to help.”
Besides filial piety, Mr. Wong attributes his return to the family business to a sense of obligation to the business’ loyal customers. “We realized that this wasn’t just for us, but for Singaporeans.” affirms Mr. Wong, “It was for the customers who patronized our store faithfully and came to support us. So we didn’t want to disappoint them.”
Fortunately, the business has more than recovered. It has since expanded to two stores and central kitchens, one along East Coast Road and the other at Joo Chiat Place.
Beyond a Product
One of the secret ingredients to Kim Choo Kueh Chang’s success is its commitment to maintaining its traditional hand-made recipes. Despite technological advancements, the business has not fully automated kueh chang production. “It would compromise the quality of our rice dumplings,” reveals Mr. Wong, “We follow my grandmother’s methods to the letter – the recipe, the wrapping techniques; they’ve all remained the same since 1945.”
Kim Choo Kueh Chang’s Nyonya Chang rice dumplings get their distinct blue hue from natural blue pea flower extract, a traditional ingredient used in the Peranakan heritage business’s recipes
This attention to detail has not gone unnoticed by customers. Mrs. Mui, a regular at the store, says that she has been coming to Kim Choo Kueh Chang for as long as she can remember. “The kuehs here are the best I’ve ever had,” she declares. “They’re always so fresh and flavorful. I love that they use the old-school recipes and ingredients – it really makes a difference in the taste!”
However, it is more than just the food that keeps customers returning. For many, the store itself is a nostalgic presence in the neighborhood. “It’s a special place,” remarks Mrs. Mui, “The fresh smells, the colorful kueh kuehs, and the Peranakan tiles. Coming here feels like a little piece of history, (as if) you’re stepping back in time.”
A lifelong Katong resident, Mrs. Mui mentions how she has seen many businesses come and go in the area, but Kim Choo Kueh Chang and its branches have remained a constant throughout. “I hope they continue long after I’m gone!” she laughs, “What they have is so precious; it’s something that needs to be treasured.”
Beyond a Business
Although Kim Choo Kueh Chang has become synonymous with rice dumplings, Mr. Wong hopes it can be seen as more than a business but a place to promote and immerse oneself in the Peranakan culture. “My grandma’s story has always been about the Peranakan culture, the Peranakan way of life,” Mr. Wong proclaims proudly, “As custodians, we want to promote this culture as a living heritage, a living culture.”
Kim Choo Kueh Chang has found ways to help beneficiaries and share the Peranakan culture through its CSR efforts. For example, a recent collaboration with St. Andrew’s Autism Centre had their students learn to make kueh kuehs and sell them at the Purple Parade, a movement to support inclusion and celebrate the abilities of Persons with Disabilities. “We don’t want to donate money and call it a day,” says Mr. Wong, “We want to provide a fulfilling journey to help others understand our culture.”
Beyond a Generation
As a third-generation owner, Mr. Wong is firmly attached to his family’s heritage and Singapore. He has been fortunate to witness many families bring their children and grandchildren to Kim Choo Kueh Chang. The shared experiences of having rice dumplings and Kueh Kuehs create a special connection between the families and the business, says Mr. Wong. “This connection is something I wish to safeguard for the generations to come.”
Kim Choo Kueh Chang has branched out beyond a heritage business, blossoming into a place where people can immerse themselves in Peranakan culture, create memories, and feel a sense of belonging. Firmly rooted as a melting pot of culture, heritage, and community, it is remarkable to consider that this special place had such humble beginnings, under a Banyan tree.
